SIEM REAP TRAVEL LOG

Let me share with you my recent travel diary...

Cambodia used to be a French colony.  There are many French style architecture in the City.

For the past few days I have been wanting so much to write on this blog but it seems that time and opportunity was wanting due to the many obligations I have to fulfill.  This holiday trip has long been in the making. Whenever I tell friends about this I always get the answer, "Why Cambodia?"  My fascination for this country came as far as I was in high school way back in the 80s.  I was a  a voracious reader and until now still is.  One of the magazines I love most was the National Geographic magazine.  Its glossy pages and vivid pictures as well as its  interesting stories bring me to a plethora of imaginations.   One of the materials on the magazine that really fascinated me was the Angkor Watt.  I have read many things about Hinduism and Buddhism.   My interest in these fields grew partly  because of my exposure to oriental philosophy while attending university (I am a Philosophy major).  During my high school and college years, I also developed the hobby of listening to shortwave radio. In the 80s and 90s cellphones and satellite TV was not yet in.  One of my hobbies then was to pick up broadcasts coming from different countries using my short wave radio receiver.  I also got to hear clandestine radio broadcasts coming from the Khmer Rough and later on from the resistance groups.  

Nice lodging at the MEKONG Bed & Breakfast at Taphul Road, Siem Reap, Cambodia.  Clean, air conditioned, with hot and cold water and other amenities for 15 USD a night. 

It can be dusty during the dry season

Last June 28 to July 2, 2012, I was able to squeeze a short segment of my time to visit Siem Reap.  Taking the opportunity that recently the Cebu Pacific Air opened a direct flight schedule  from Manila to Siem Reap, Cambodia.  With my camera and notebook off I went to Siem Reap. I arrived in Siem Reap around past 9:00 p.m. in the evening.  I stayed at the Mekong Bed and Breakfast Hotel.  It was a nice hotel.  The staff were courteous, the room was nice and clean and imagine for only $15 dollars a night.  That was really value for money.  I opined that in other places I've went to, that kind of hotel accommodation would have cost me from 25-35 US dollars.  But here it seems a little bit cheap because of the stiff competition among hotel owners.  But I think they would not run out of customers because of the hordes of tourists visiting Siem Reap daily and much more on peak season.  When I arrived I immediately headed for my bed because next morning I have to be very early to catch the sunrise at Angkor-watt. 

The Busy shops in the morning is automatically converted into a pub street at night time.  The Pub street is frequented by tourists and locals at night.  One can spend a leisurely night in the various pubs located on this street.  Massage is also freely offered on the street.

The Second Day (Friday) 

Sunrise at the Angkor Watt is something never to be missed.  So at exactly 4:00 a.m. I woke up and met the tuk-tuk driver who will take me to the Angkor Watt.  There is such serenity and beauty in this ancient structures as it appears on a silhouette.  Surprise that even on an early morning there are already hundreds of tourists on the ground.  I bought a ticket for $40 which is good for three days.  One day visit to the Angkor Archaeological Park is not enough as it is huge and vast and there are so many ruins and temples to visit.  As a useful tip, one would appreciate the beauty and significance of these archaeological pieces if one has read or has a background into the history of the Khmer Empire. Otherwise you will simply get tired of looking into heaps and piles of stones.  So if you are a tourist that is interested in culture and the arts, Siem Reap is for you. 

I bought a ticket that would allow me to visit the Area for three days.  The ticket  was worth 40 USD

My Tuk-tuk driver.  We left the hotel very early to catch up with the Sunrise at Angkor Watt

The Entrance to the Main Gate of the Angkor Watt

The Angkor Watt undergoing some minor restoration work. It was a bit of a disappointment for me as I was wishing to take a good photo of the monument when these drapes where placed. 

Another View of Angkor Watt at Sunrise.  The best way to view the Angkor Watt is during the sunrise and sunset.  I did my best to be here by sunrise around 5:00 a.m. to be able to see the sun rise and see how dramatic the view unfold with the Temple appearing in a silhouette.

The author at the lower courtyard of the Angkor Watt.  Kindness comes in unexpected places.  I was trying to set the automatic timer of my camera when all of a sudden a Caucasian tourist volunteered to take my photo.  He was kind enough to help me get a photo of myself.  I did not bring along a tripod so I practically have to set the camera in stage where it can perform its automatic function.  This was not the first time however I encounter this kindness.  In the Bayon temple I also encountered a French-Canadian tourist who volunteered to take my picture.

Inner Courtyard of Angkor Watt.  I think the Angkor Watt has three or four layers.  They said that the main stupa is as high as the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.

By around 8 a.m. the hordes of tourists began arriving by droves in bus loads. This is not the peak season by you could see the number of tourists coming.  The Angkor Watt is the most visited site among the many temple complexes in the Angkor Archeological site.  If you want to enjoy your visit and avoid being distracted by the huge crowd come very early...as early as 4:00 a.m.  You will have the chance to watch the sunrise and at the same time be able to explore the interior, the inner court yards before the arrival of the crowds.

Some of these crowds are organized by tour agencies, some coming from neighboring Vietnam.  Some of the Cambodians I have talked to always mistook me for a Thai or Vietnamese.  Notice the color coding of the caps and the flags.  These are the means by which tour agencies organized their groups.  An efficient way to organize large tour groups.

I spent my early morning at the Angkor Watt.  There were a number of tourists roaming around and it is so hard to find yourself alone.  But if you want to avoid the hordes of tourists that visits the Angkor on a daily basis come to this area as early as you can in the morning.  That will give you some little space to meditate and to savor the experience and to study in detail the various artifacts. Unfortunately just near the entrance you will be met by overzealous vendors.  One vendor was trying to coax me into buying his book at 25 US Dollars.  I paid him no attention.  But he kept on pursuing me and lowered the price to 18 US Dollars.  Surprisingly when I was about to leave he dropped the price to 1 US Dollar.  If you are in Cambodia you have to master the art of bargaining.  Bargaining far from a nuisance is an art.  It is also enjoyable and you can practice the art of negotiation in order to maximize your interests.  You will be perceived as gullible if for the first offer you easily accede to the price.  

Pre-Rup, one of the imposing characteristic of this ruins is its stately appearance.

The Top of Pre-Rup gives one a commanding view of the surrounding environs.  This temple like other Hindu Temples is located at the center of the City. Many centuries ago there was once a city around this temples.  Temples are always built at the center.  This temple is associated with funerary.  They said this is where cremations are done.  This was once a state temple.

After the viewing at Pre-Rup the driver of my rented "Tuk-tuk" asked permission if he could go to a wedding party, but eventually ended up inviting me to go along with him.  I've never been to a Cambodian wedding party and I was a bit curious.  Though my driver could not speak English well and we have some difficulty communicating, I understood from him that whenever someone is invited to a wedding party, the guest have to pay something.  He informed me that I have to pay 10 US Dollar to the minimum.  I was also curious and I considered it one of a life time experience so I gave in to him.  I thought that this is fair enough because it was lunch time and if ever I decide to eat in one of the open door restaurants I would be spending the same amount of money.

A Taste of Cambodian Wedding Feast.  The liquor was overflowing I could not imagine drinking almost four cans of Angkor Beer.  I enjoyed the food.  Though I find some herbs unusual for my taste.  But in general the food was very good.  I enjoyed using chops sticks.

All the guests were dressed in their best.  I was a total stranger.  I was wearing my shorts and had a backpack.  I felt I was out of place and I had difficulty communicating with those seated with me on the table.  But I noticed that the younger generations are able to speak conversational English.  Some are apologetic and asked me to be more patient with how things are going in Cambodia.  But generally I find the people hospitable.

Wedding Parties have tents like these.

 We visited another smaller temple called Ta Som.

Ta Som

 A whole day is not enough.  After this visit I called it a day and I went back to the hotel to take my rest.  I was forced to go back to the hotel because of heavy torrential rains and thunderstorms. 

Third Day (Saturday)

On the third day I decided to go back again to Angkor Watt.

I visited Bantay Srey.  This is one of the most well preserved of all the temples in the area. Let me share with you some of the photos I have taken.

These were the victims of Land Mine with their musical performance. The countryside were littered with land mine during the war period.  Innocent civilians were often the victims of these land mine.

I took my lunch in one of the cafes in Bantay Srey.  And after this I immediately proceeded to Bantay Samre.  Another Temple located several miles from here.  In contrast to Angkor Watt this temple area is less visited.  When I went to this temple around 2:00 p.m. there were only a couple of tourists around.  I could also hear the chuckles and jesting of the maintenance workers.  I enjoyed the time there.  The quiet and the peace.  I also enjoyed the time spent to look closely on the structures without being disturbed by too much human traffic. It was also from here that I bought a little brass figurine of an apsara with a bell at its base bottom.  Here are some of the photos:

After an hour and a half visit to Bantay Samre, I decided that its time to move to the next destination - Ta Phom, as the afternoon sky begin to brew with thunderstorm.  I am happy to have with me my umbrella and my backpack has a plastic cover.  So we headed for Ta Phom.  My Tuk-tuk driver instructed to return to exit in the same direction as where I came from, that is, on the eastern side.  I never paid attention to his instruction and on my exit I found myself going out of the west gate and that was almost a couple of kilometer from the east gate.  So on my way out I have to go back and run the couple of kilometers back.  It was here that the strong torrential rains caught up with me and I have to take shelter among the ruins.  As I took shelter among the ruins I was scared because the policemen officer I met told me to hurry up as the museum was about to close.  I decided to brave the torrential rains.  Along the way I was met by my Tuk-tuk driver who decided to walk and try to look for me as he was worried what took me so long. The people who rehabilitated this temple decided to leave some vegetation over the ruins.  Perhaps to give the idea how these temples were originally discovered by historians and archaeologists.  It was noted however that the heavy traffic of tourists have created some stress to the giant trees and vegetation.  The tropical climate and the humidity of the place contributed to the growth of vegetation.  But Here are some photos of Ta Phom:

After my visit at Ta Phrom, I decided to go back to the hotel for the much needed rest.